Facial serum for expression lines with water-soluble Acmella

About this recipe. A light aqueous serum in which the Acmella Expression Line Smoothing Active Ingredient is incorporated at 4%, within the documented usage range of 2% to 5%. It is intended as a facial trial formula for evaluating sensory feel, comfort and the appearance of smoother skin.

Why these ingredients are used.

Acmella extract is the main active ingredient in the formula.
Propanediol and glycerine provide immediate hydration and help with slip.
Siligel creates a light gel texture without making the formula heavy.
Geogard 221 / Cosgard protects the aqueous formula if the final pH is compatible.

It must not be presented as a substitute for medical treatments or promise absolute results. It is an indicative cosmetic suggestion that must be validated.

Base formula

Include	Product	%	Quantity	Price / pack size
Humectant aqueous base
	Distilled or deionised water	85.7 %	85.7 g	Manual addition
	Propanediol Ecocert	5 %	5 g	€0.55 used (1 x 50 ml · purchase €5.50) Approx. leftover 45 ml
	Liquid vegetable glycerine	4 %	4 g	€0.09 used (1 x 125 g · purchase €2.90) Approx. leftover 121 g
Gelling
	Siligel - Natural gelling agent	0.5 %	0.5 g	€0.28 used (1 x 10 g · purchase €5.65) Approx. leftover 9.5 g
Active and preservation
	Acmella Expression Line Smoothing Active Ingredient	4 %	4 g	€3.85 used (1 x 5 ml · purchase €4.81) Approx. leftover 1 ml
	Geogard 221 / Cosgard	0.8 %	0.8 g	€0.16 used (1 x 10 ml · purchase €2.05) Approx. leftover 9.2 ml
	20% citric acid solution	0 %	0 c.n.	Manual addition

Step by step

1 Room temperature

Disinfect and prepare

Disinfect the worktop, beaker, spatula and final container. With an aqueous serum, the formula is susceptible to contamination, so it is best to take your time.

Have pH strips or a meter to hand before starting, as the final adjustment should not be improvised.

2 Room temperature

Prepare the humectant base

Weigh the water, propanediol and glycerine. Mix slowly until the phase is uniform.

This base provides hydration and helps the serum glide better, without relying solely on the main active ingredient.

3 Room temperature

Add Siligel

Sprinkle in Siligel little by little while mixing. Adding it all at once can form small lumps.

Leave to hydrate for 10-15 minutes and mix again. The texture should be light, not like a thick gel.

4 Room temperature

Incorporate the water-soluble Acmella

Add the Acmella Expression-Line Smoothing Active and mix gently until fully distributed.

It makes up 4% of this recipe, rather than being decorative: it is the active ingredient that gives the formula its purpose.

5 Room temperature

Preserve and measure the pH

Add Geogard 221 / Cosgard and mix well. Then measure the pH.

If you need to lower it, use a 20% citric acid solution drop by drop. Mix, wait a few seconds and measure again before adding more.

Final Room temperature

Resting and checks

Leave to rest for 24 hours and check the texture, smell, colour and appearance.

If it changes considerably, separates, smells unusual or the pH shifts, do not consider it valid. It needs adjusting and testing again.

Preservation, shelf life and validation

Indicative formula for external cosmetic use. It must be tested and validated before regular use or sale.
Work with clean, dry, disinfected utensils. In formulas containing water, always check pH and preservation.
Do not apply to irritated skin, wounds or mucous membranes. Carry out a tolerance test if the skin is sensitive.
Avoid direct contact with the eyes. If intended for the eye area, validate tolerance specifically.

Questions, improvements and possible corrections

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