Light hair lotion with Hydrolysed Soya Protein

About this recipe. A very light aqueous hair lotion in which Hydrolysed Soy Protein is incorporated at 8%, within the documented usage range of 0,5% to 10%. It is intended as a starting point for evaluating the aminopeptide contribution in simple hair formulas.

Why these ingredients are used.

Hydrolysed soy protein is the main active ingredient in the formula.
Propanediol and glycerine help improve feel and hydration.
A very low level of Siligel adds a little body so that it is not just like water.
Geogard 221 / Cosgard preserves the aqueous phase if the final pH is compatible.

The data sheet indicates that this active ingredient should be incorporated below 35 °C. This should be respected and the final formula validated.

Base formula

Include	Product	%	Quantity	Price / pack size
Aqueous base
	Distilled or deionised water	83 %	83 g	Manual addition
	Propanediol Ecocert	5 %	5 g	€0.55 used (1 x 50 ml · purchase €5.50) Approx. leftover 45 ml
	Liquid vegetable glycerine	3 %	3 g	€0.07 used (1 x 125 g · purchase €2.90) Approx. leftover 122 g
Light texture
	Siligel - Natural gelling agent	0.2 %	0.2 g	€0.11 used (1 x 10 g · purchase €5.65) Approx. leftover 9.8 g
Active ingredient, preservation and pH
	Hydrolysed Soy Protein - Aminopeptide Complex	8 %	8 g	€2.84 used (1 x 10 g · purchase €3.55) Approx. leftover 2 g
	Geogard 221 / Cosgard	0.8 %	0.8 g	€0.16 used (1 x 10 ml · purchase €2.05) Approx. leftover 9.2 ml
	20% citric acid solution	0 %	0 c.n.	Manual addition

Step by step

1 Room temperature

Prepare and disinfect

Disinfect the worktop, beaker, spatula and container. If using a spray mechanism, disinfect that too and leave it to dry.

This lotion contains a lot of water and a hydrolysed protein, so it must be prepared hygienically.

2 Room temperature

Mix the aqueous base

Weigh the water, propanediol and glycerine. Mix until the phase is uniform.

Do not aim for viscosity yet; for now we only want a uniform aqueous base.

3 Room temperature

Give it a little texture

Sprinkle in the Siligel gradually and mix. The usage level is very low to keep the lotion light.

Allow to hydrate for a few minutes and mix again before continuing.

4 <35 °C

Incorporate the protein below 35 °C

Check that the mixture is below 35 °C. Add the Hydrolysed Soya Protein and mix gently.

If the ingredient shows opalescence or sediment in its container, shake it before weighing, as indicated in the technical data sheet.

5 Room temperature

Preserve and adjust the pH

Add Geogard 221 / Cosgard and mix until homogeneous. Measure the final pH.

If adjustment is needed, use a 20% citric acid solution drop by drop. Mix and measure again each time.

Final Room temperature

Rest and check in use

Leave to rest for 24 hours and check the smell, colour, precipitates, viscosity and spray mechanism if using one.

Shake before use if you notice slight opalescence or sediment.

Preservation, shelf life and validation

Indicative formula for external cosmetic use. It must be tested and validated before regular use or sale.
Work with clean, dry, disinfected utensils. In formulas containing water, always check pH and preservation.
Do not apply to irritated skin, wounds or mucous membranes. Carry out a tolerance test if the skin is sensitive.
Do not spray towards the eyes or mucous membranes. If used as a spray, validate droplet size and tolerance.

Questions, improvements and possible corrections

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