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Gentle rinse-off two-phase cleanser with SugaNate
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Gentle rinse-off two-phase cleanser with SugaNate

Indicative two-phase formula to shake before use and rinse off afterwards.

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Formula objective. A gentle rinse-off two-phase cleanser with SugaNate. The suggestion combines an aqueous surfactant phase and a light oil phase to improve slip and the removal of oil-soluble dirt, always followed by rinsing.

Why these ingredients were chosen.

  • SugaNate is used as the main surfactant in the aqueous cleansing phase.
  • The amphoteric co-surfactant improves mildness and rinsing.
  • The oil phase provides slip and helps solubilise light greasy residues.
  • The humectants and comfort active ingredients reduce the feeling of dryness.
  • Two-phase separation is part of the design: shake before use; a permanent emulsion is not the aim.

Intended users. Users who want to trial a rinse-off cleanser with a richer sensory feel than an aqueous gel. It is not formulated as an eye makeup remover.

Skill level. Advanced level: requires an understanding of phases, shaking before use, container compatibility, preservation of the aqueous phase and rinse-off tolerance.

Validation required. Validate reproducible separation, aqueous-phase pH, preservation, smell, container compatibility, rinsing and facial tolerance.

Base formula

Include Product % Quantity Price / pack size
Cleansing aqueous phase
Distilled or deionised water
69.2 % 173 g Manual addition
SugaNate 160NC
6 % 15 g €0.59 used (1 x 125 ml · purchase €4.90) Approx. leftover 110 ml
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate
4 % 10 g €0.17 used (1 x 100 ml · purchase €1.65) Approx. leftover 90 ml
Liquid vegetable glycerine
3 % 7.5 g €0.17 used (1 x 125 g · purchase €2.90) Approx. leftover 117.5 g
D-Panthenol W75
1 % 2.5 g €0.45 used (1 x 25 g · purchase €4.45) Approx. leftover 22.5 g
Geogard 221 / Cosgard
0.8 % 2 g €0.41 used (1 x 10 ml · purchase €2.05) Approx. leftover 8 ml
Light oil phase
Isoamyl Laurate
10 % 25 g €1.79 used (1 x 60 ml · purchase €4.30) Approx. leftover 35 ml
Virgin Jojoba Oil
6 % 15 g €1.98 used (1 x 30 ml · purchase €3.95) Approx. leftover 15 ml
Two-phase packaging
Citric acid in a 20% solution
0 % 0 c.n. Manual addition

Step by step

Understand the formula before starting 1 Room temperature

Understand the formula before starting

This recipe has two layers: an aqueous layer and an oil layer. The aim is not to make it look like a cream. It should separate into two phases, which is why it is labelled shake before use.

Prepare the aqueous phase 2 Room temperature

Prepare the aqueous phase

In a clean beaker, mix the water, glycerine, panthenol, SugaNate and Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate. Stir gently to avoid creating foam. Add the preservative and mix again.

Measure the pH of the aqueous phase 3 Room temperature

Measure the pH of the aqueous phase

Measure the pH before adding the oils. If adjustment is needed, do it now with diluted citric acid, drop by drop. It is easier to measure the pH in the aqueous part than in the finished two-phase product.

Prepare the oil phase 4 Room temperature

Prepare the oil phase

In another clean beaker, weigh the Isoamyl Laurate and Jojoba oil. This phase needs neither heat nor a mixer; simply mix slowly until it looks uniform.

The oil phase will provide slip and help remove oil-soluble dirt. As this is a two-phase recipe, the aim is not for it to combine permanently with the water.

Before packaging, check that there are no traces of the aqueous phase in the oil-phase beaker. Preparing both phases properly helps the final product separate cleanly and predictably.

Package in two layers 5 Room temperature

Package in two layers

Pour the aqueous phase into the container first. Then add the oil phase slowly. If it mixes a little as it falls, that is fine: it will separate again as it rests.

Label and use correctly Final Room temperature

Label and use correctly

Label with the date and the phrase shake before use. To use, shake, apply a small amount and rinse. Avoid direct contact with the eyes unless the formula is specifically validated for that area.

Preservation, shelf life and validation

  • Shake before use and rinse afterwards.
  • Avoid direct contact with the eyes.
  • Validate preservation because it contains an aqueous phase.
  • Do not consider it a commercial formula without stability and packaging compatibility testing.

Questions, improvements and possible corrections

If you have a question about this recipe, notice a possible error or would like to suggest an improvement, please let us know here.

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