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Light gel-cream stabilised with Siligel
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Light gel-cream stabilised with Siligel

Light O/W emulsion in which Siligel acts as a stabiliser and enhances the sensory feel of the aqueous phase.

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About this recipe. A light gel-cream for testing Siligel in an O/W emulsion. Here it is not used only to thicken water: it acts as a stabiliser for the aqueous phase, provides rheology support and improves the sensory feel of a fluid cream.

Why these ingredients are used.

  • Siligel helps reinforce the emulsion structure and improve feel.
  • Olivem 1000 MB/RSPO creates the main emulsion.
  • Isoamyl Laurate provides spreadability and a silky feel without an excessively greasy sensation.
  • Cetyl alcohol improves body, stability and a conditioned feel.
  • Glycerine and D-Panthenol W75 complete the humectant and comfort components.
  • Geogard 221 / Cosgard preserves the aqueous formula once the pH has been adjusted.

This is a starting formula. It must be tested for stability, centrifugation if available, temperature cycling, pH, smell, colour, viscosity and container compatibility.

Base formula

Include Product % Quantity Price / pack size
Structured aqueous phase
Distilled or deionised water
79 % 79 g Manual addition
Liquid vegetable glycerine
3 % 3 g €0.07 used (1 x 125 g · purchase €2.90) Approx. leftover 122 g
Siligel - Natural gelling agent
0.7 % 0.7 g €0.40 used (1 x 10 g · purchase €5.65) Approx. leftover 9.3 g
Oil phase
Olivem 1000 MB/RSPO
5 % 5 g €0.74 used (1 x 50 g · purchase €7.35) Approx. leftover 45 g
Isoamyl Laurate
8 % 8 g €0.57 used (1 x 60 ml · purchase €4.30) Approx. leftover 52 ml
Cetyl Alcohol MB/RSPO
1.5 % 1.5 g €0.07 used (1 x 50 g · purchase €2.25) Approx. leftover 48.5 g
Cooling and adjustment
D-Panthenol W75
2 % 2 g €0.36 used (1 x 25 g · purchase €4.45) Approx. leftover 23 g
Geogard 221 / Cosgard
0.8 % 0.8 g €0.16 used (1 x 10 ml · purchase €2.05) Approx. leftover 9.2 ml
20% citric acid solution
0 % 0 c.n. Manual addition

Step by step

Prepare the workspace 1 Room temperature

Prepare the workspace

Disinfect the utensils and container, and prepare two heat-resistant beakers. With emulsions, it is important to work methodically, because if something is missing while the phases are hot, the texture may suffer.

Create the aqueous phase with Siligel 2 Room temperature

Create the aqueous phase with Siligel

Weigh the water and glycerine. Slowly sprinkle in Siligel while mixing. The aim is for it to start hydrating before heating, so that it helps structure the aqueous phase.

Prepare the oil phase 3 70-75 °C

Prepare the oil phase

In another beaker, weigh the Olivem 1000, Isoamyl Laurate and cetyl alcohol. Heat this phase until the emulsifier and cetyl alcohol have completely melted.

Heat the aqueous phase 4 70-75 °C

Heat the aqueous phase

Heat the aqueous phase to a temperature similar to the oil phase. There is no need to boil: the aim is to bring the temperatures close together to help the emulsion form.

Emulsify 5 Approx. 70 °C

Emulsify

Pour the oil phase into the aqueous phase and mix with constant agitation. If you have a laboratory blender or mini homogeniser, use short pulses. If mixing by hand, keep the mixture moving without creating too many bubbles.

Mix during cooling 6 Below 45 °C

Mix during cooling

Keep mixing as the emulsion cools. You will see the texture starting to develop body. Do not judge the final viscosity yet: Siligel and the emulsion may settle during resting.

Add the final phase 7 <40 °C

Add the final phase

Once the emulsion is below 40 °C, add D-Panthenol W75, followed by Geogard 221 / Cosgard. Mix well after each addition so that no areas are left without preservative.

Measure the pH and package Final Room temperature

Measure the pH and package

Measure the pH and adjust with a 20% citric acid solution if necessary. Package once the cream is uniform. Leave to rest for 24 hours and check for separation, changes in smell, lumps or excessive variation in texture.

Preservation, shelf life and validation

  • Indicative cosmetic emulsion formula. Validate stability before prolonged use.
  • Work with strict hygiene and disinfected containers.
  • Do not heat above 80 °C when Siligel is part of the aqueous phase.

Questions, improvements and possible corrections

If you have a question about this recipe, notice a possible error or would like to suggest an improvement, please let us know here.

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