Conditioning mask with palm-free BTMS 25

A rinse-off hair mask intended to test palm-free BTMS 25 as the main cationic conditioning emulsifier. The main ingredient is palm-free BTMS 25: although it is not the largest component by weight, it is what enables the emulsion, texture or dispersion to form. This is why the recipe makes sense as a formula specific to this product. Why it is designed this way: - BTMS 25 is used at 7%, sufficient to provide structure and a conditioning effect. - The oil phase is moderate to improve sensory feel without making rinsing difficult. - Panthenol supports hair feel, but the recipe does not revolve around the active ingredient. - The final pH is aimed at a range more suitable for a rinse-off hair mask. Intermediate level: requires accurate weighing, temperature control when making a hot-process emulsion, and validation of the finished formula. Before scaling up or marketing, check stability, pH where applicable, viscosity, smell, colour, preservation and container compatibility.

Base formula

Include	Product	%	Quantity	Price / pack size
Aqueous phase
	Distilled water	78.2 %	78.2 g	Manual addition
	Vegetable glycerine	3 %	3 g	€0.07 used (1 x 125 g · purchase €2.90) Approx. leftover 122 g
Oil phase / emulsifier
	Palm-free BTMS 25	7 %	7 g	€0.54 used (1 x 50 g · purchase €3.85) Approx. leftover 43 g
	Coco Caprylate / Caprate	3 %	3 g	€0.22 used (1 x 50 ml · purchase €3.60) Approx. leftover 47 ml
	Organic Virgin Jojoba Oil	3 %	3 g	€0.40 used (1 x 30 ml · purchase €3.95) Approx. leftover 27 ml
Final phase
	Provitamin B5 - Panthenol W75%	5 %	5 g	€0.89 used (1 x 25 g · purchase €4.45) Approx. leftover 20 g
	Geogard 221 / Cosgard Preservative	0.8 %	0.8 g	€0.16 used (1 x 10 ml · purchase €2.05) Approx. leftover 9.2 ml

Step by step

1 Room temperature

Disinfect and prepare

Clean the worktop and disinfect the beakers, spatulas, blender, thermometer, pH meter or pH strips, and final container.

Before heating, check that you have separated the aqueous phase, oil phase and final phase. This organisation makes the recipe much less overwhelming.

2 Room temperature

Weigh the aqueous and oil phases

Weigh the aqueous phase into a heat-resistant beaker. If xanthan gum is included, mix it with the glycerine first and then add the water to avoid lumps.

In another beaker, weigh the oils, emollients and main emulsifier. Check that the percentage of each phase matches the formula before heating.

3 70-75 ºC

Heat until melted

Heat the aqueous and oil phases until the emulsifier has completely melted. As a starting point, work at around 70-75 ºC.

Do not combine the phases if you can still see unmelted beads, flakes or pieces. This is often where an emulsion starts to go wrong.

4 70-75 ºC

Emulsify

Pour the hot aqueous phase into the hot oil phase, or the other way round if your usual method works better, but keep both at a similar temperature.

Blend at low power for one or two minutes, then alternate pauses with manual mixing. Do not judge the final texture while hot: many emulsions develop body as they cool.

5 <35 ºC

Cool without incorporating air

Continue stirring occasionally as the temperature falls. Avoid vigorous whisking once the cream starts to thicken, as this will introduce bubbles that are difficult to remove.

Once it is below 35 ºC, you can move on to the final phase.

6 <35 ºC

Add the final phase and measure the pH

Add the preservative and any heat-sensitive active ingredients, and mix until distributed.

Measure the pH at the end. The indicative target is 4.5-5.5. If adjustment is needed, make small changes, mix, wait a few minutes and measure again.

Final Room temperature

Package and observe

Transfer to a clean, dry container and label it with the name, date and amount prepared.

Do not consider the formula satisfactory on the first day. Observe it for 7-14 days: separation, smell, colour, viscosity, pH, skin feel and compatibility with the container.

Preservation, shelf life and validation

Indicative formula for external cosmetic use. Disinfect utensils and the container, work hygienically and do not touch the finished cream with your hands.
As it contains water, it needs a preservative and microbiological validation if it is to be stored or marketed.

Questions, improvements and possible corrections

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