Light natural cream with Plant-Derived Kappa Emulsifier

About this recipe. A light cream with an external aqueous phase in which Plant-based Kappa Emulsifier is used at 5%, within the documented usage range of 4% to 6%. The aim is to check its ability to create a natural emulsion with body, good spreadability and a comfortable feel on the skin.

Why these ingredients are used.

Plant-based Kappa Emulsifier is the main emulsifier and the key technical ingredient in the formula.
Almond oil provides emollience and rounds out the cream without making it excessively heavy.
Coco Caprylate/Caprate improves slip and lightens the greasy feel.
Siligel helps stabilise the aqueous phase and improves the final texture.
Geogard 221 / Cosgard preserves the aqueous formula within its pH range.

This is a starting formula. Before considering it satisfactory, check pH, viscosity after 24-48 hours, separation, smell, colour, stability and tolerance.

Base formula

Include	Product	%	Quantity	Price / pack size
Aqueous phase
	Distilled or deionised water	69.7 %	69.7 g	Manual addition
	Liquid vegetable glycerine	3 %	3 g	€0.07 used (1 x 125 g · purchase €2.90) Approx. leftover 122 g
	Siligel - Natural gelling agent	0.3 %	0.3 g	€0.17 used (1 x 10 g · purchase €5.65) Approx. leftover 9.7 g
Hot oil phase
	Plant-based Kappa Emulsifier	5 %	5 g	Pack sizes are available, but they are currently out of stock.
	Sweet Almond Oil	15 %	15 g	€0.35 used (1 x 125 ml · purchase €2.95) Approx. leftover 110 ml
	Coco Caprilate / Caprate - RSPO MB	6 %	6 g	€0.43 used (1 x 50 ml · purchase €3.60) Approx. leftover 44 ml
	Natural vitamin E	0.2 %	0.2 g	€0.15 used (1 x 10 ml · purchase €7.45) Approx. leftover 9.8 ml
Cooling and adjustment
	Geogard 221 / Cosgard	0.8 %	0.8 g	€0.16 used (1 x 10 ml · purchase €2.05) Approx. leftover 9.2 ml
	20% citric acid solution	0 %	0 c.n.	Manual addition

Step by step

1 Room temperature

Prepare the workspace and weigh the aqueous phase

Before starting, clean the worktop and disinfect the beaker, stirring rod, spatula and final container. This formula contains water, so hygiene is not optional.

Weigh the water, add the glycerine and disperse the Siligel little by little. Mix until no dry lumps remain. If necessary, allow a few minutes for hydration and mix again.

2 60-70 °C

Melt the oil phase

In another beaker, weigh the Plant-Derived Kappa Emulsifier, almond oil, Coco Caprylate/Caprate and vitamin E.

Heat gently until the emulsifier has melted completely. Take your time: if solid particles remain, the emulsion may lose texture or stability.

3 60-70 °C

Match the temperatures

Also heat the aqueous phase to a temperature similar to that of the oil phase. Ideally, both phases should be close in temperature before emulsifying.

If one phase is very hot and the other is cold, the emulsion may form less well or thicken unevenly.

4 60-70 °C

Emulsify

Pour the oil phase into the aqueous phase and mix with a laboratory blender or mini blender for a few minutes.

Then switch to gentler stirring as it cools. The cream may seem more fluid at first; many emulsions finish developing body after resting.

5 <40 °C

Add the preservative and adjust the pH

Once the cream is below 40 °C, add Geogard 221 / Cosgard and mix thoroughly.

Measure the final pH. If you need to lower it, use a 20% citric acid solution drop by drop, mixing and measuring again. Do not adjust by eye.

Final Room temperature

Allow to rest, check and package

Leave the cream to rest for 24 hours before judging the final texture. Check for separation, changes in smell, lumps, colour variation or loss of viscosity.

Only package once the formula is homogeneous and the pH is within the intended range.

Preservation, shelf life and validation

Indicative formula for external cosmetic use. It must be tested and validated before regular use or sale.
Work with clean, dry, disinfected utensils. In formulas containing water, always check pH and preservation.
Do not apply to irritated skin, wounds or mucous membranes. Carry out a tolerance test if the skin is sensitive.

Questions, improvements and possible corrections

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