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Deep-cleansing solid shampoo with SCS
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Solid shampoo

Deep-cleansing solid shampoo with SCS

Indicative formula with SCS at a moderate concentration, combined with SCI and glutamate.

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A solid shampoo with more intensive cleansing in which SCS is the main surfactant. It is intended for hair that needs stronger cleansing, not as the first choice for a sensitive scalp. The main ingredient is SCS. The recipe is calculated to give it a real role in the formula, rather than including it as a decorative addition. Why it is designed this way: - SCS is increased to 38%, higher than SCI and glutamate. - SCI helps make the bar creamier and less brittle. - Jojoba and cetyl alcohol offset the more intensive cleansing feel a little. - Tolerance must be thoroughly validated because SCS is a high-foaming anionic surfactant. Intermediate level: a mask must be worn when handling surfactant powders, the mixture must be well compacted, the bar must be allowed to dry, and the pH must be checked in an aqueous dispersion before considering it valid. This is an indicative suggestion that must be tested and validated.

Base formula

Include Product % Quantity Price / pack size
Powdered surfactants
Microfiltered SCI
20 % 20 g Pack sizes are available, but they are currently out of stock.
SCS - Sodium Coco-Sulfate
38 % 38 g €1.60 used (1 x 50 g · purchase €2.10) Approx. leftover 12 g
Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate powder
10 % 10 g €1.13 used (1 x 50 g · purchase €5.65) Approx. leftover 40 g
Melted phase and actives
Cetyl Alcohol
7 % 7 g €0.32 used (1 x 50 g · purchase €2.25) Approx. leftover 43 g
Virgin Jojoba Oil
5 % 5 g €0.66 used (1 x 30 ml · purchase €3.95) Approx. leftover 25 ml
Liquid vegetable glycerine
5 % 5 g €0.12 used (1 x 125 g · purchase €2.90) Approx. leftover 120 g
D-Panthenol W75
2 % 2 g €0.36 used (1 x 25 g · purchase €4.45) Approx. leftover 23 g
Hydrolysed Wheat Protein
2 % 2 g €0.52 used (1 x 10 ml · purchase €2.60) Approx. leftover 8 ml
Distilled or deionised water
10.2 % 10.2 g Manual addition
Geogard 221 / Cosgard
0.8 % 0.8 g €0.16 used (1 x 10 ml · purchase €2.05) Approx. leftover 9.2 ml

Step by step

Prepare and protect the workspace 1 Room temperature

Prepare and protect the workspace

Before starting, prepare the worktop, mould, spatula, beakers, scales and a mask. Solid shampoos involve powdered surfactants, and the key is to avoid inhaling them or creating a cloud of dust while mixing.

Wear a mask, goggles and gloves. This is not intended to complicate the recipe: it is a simple measure to help you work with greater peace of mind.

Weigh the powders 2 Room temperature

Weigh the powders

Weigh the surfactants and supporting powders into a large container. Do this slowly and avoid pouring from a height.

If you see lumps, break them up with the spatula or sieve gently. The more uniform this part is, the easier it will be to compact the bar later.

Melt the fat phase 3 50-65 ºC

Melt the fat phase

In another beaker, melt the cetyl alcohol with the oils or emollients in the recipe over gentle heat. We do not want to fry anything: just melt and homogenise it.

Once it is liquid and uniform, remove it from the heat so that its temperature does not continue to rise.

Moisten and form the dough 4 Gently warmed

Moisten and form the dough

Add the fat phase to the powders and fold together. Then gradually incorporate the glycerine, water and liquid actives.

Do not add all the liquid at once. The dough should be mouldable, like a compact paste, rather than a runny cream. If it seems dry, wait and knead it a little before adjusting.

Compact in the mould 5 Room temperature

Compact in the mould

Transfer the dough to the mould in small portions and press firmly. It is better to compact it in layers than to fill the mould all at once and leave gaps inside.

Smooth the surface with the spatula. If the bar cracks slightly, patiently press it again.

Dry and unmould 6 Room temperature

Dry and unmould

Leave the bar to dry in a clean, ventilated place protected from moisture. Do not put it in a closed container while it is still soft or damp.

Unmould once it is firm enough. Depending on the mould, ambient humidity and amount of water used, it may need more or less time.

Check the pH and validate Final Room temperature

Check the pH and validate

Once the bar is dry, prepare a 10% dispersion: for example, 1 g of grated or chopped solid shampoo in 9 g of distilled water. Mix, wait a few minutes and measure the pH.

Indicative target: 5,5-6,5 in a 10% dispersion. If it falls outside the range, do not consider it valid: adjust the formula in a new test; do not try to correct a finished bar blindly.

Preservation, shelf life and validation

  • Handle powdered surfactants with a mask, goggles and gloves. Avoid raising dust while weighing and mixing.
  • Measure the pH in an aqueous dispersion before validating the bar. Do not seal it in airtight packaging until the product is sufficiently hard and dry.

Questions, improvements and possible corrections

If you have a question about this recipe, notice a possible error or would like to suggest an improvement, please let us know here.

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