Gentle solid shampoo with Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate

Indicative solid shampoo designed around Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate as the core of the cleansing system. SCI provides supporting structure and foam, rather than being the main ingredient. The glycerine and jojoba oil help make the mixture workable and improve the feel during use. Water is used only to form the moulding paste; afterwards, it is advisable to let the bar dry and mature. When the pH is adjusted below 7,5, the technical data sheet indicates that the functional INCI in the formula changes to Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate. This is why measuring a 10% dispersion is proposed, rather than guessing.

Base formula

Include	Product	%	Quantity	Price / pack size
Surfactant powders
	Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate	36 %	36 g	€4.07 used (1 x 50 g · purchase €5.65) Approx. leftover 14 g
	SCI Surfactant	24 %	24 g	€0.96 used (1 x 50 g · purchase €2.00) Approx. leftover 26 g
	Colloidal Oatmeal	10 %	10 g	€1.08 used (1 x 50 g · purchase €5.40) Approx. leftover 40 g
	Maize Starch	8 %	8 g	€0.31 used (1 x 50 g · purchase €1.95) Approx. leftover 42 g
Moistening and moulding
	Liquid Vegetable Glycerine	8 %	8 g	€0.19 used (1 x 125 g · purchase €2.90) Approx. leftover 117 g
	Jojoba Oil	5 %	5 g	€0.66 used (1 x 30 ml · purchase €3.95) Approx. leftover 25 ml
	Distilled or demineralised water	7.5 %	7.5 g	Manual addition
	80% lactic acid	1.5 %	1.5 g	€0.05 used (1 x 50 ml · purchase €1.55) Approx. leftover 48.5 ml

Step by step

1 Room temperature

Use protective equipment and prepare the powders

Wear a mask and work slowly. With a solid shampoo containing powdered surfactants, the most important thing at the start is to avoid inhaling particles.
Weigh the Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, SCI, oats and starch. Sieve if you see lumps.

2 Room temperature

Mix without raising dust

Fold the powders together gently. Do not use a blender or electric whisk.
The mixture should look uniform before adding liquids; otherwise, the bar may have areas with a higher concentration of surfactant.

3 Room temperature

Prepare the kneading phase

In another beaker, mix the glycerine, jojoba, water and lactic acid. Add this phase to the powders little by little.
Do not pour it all in at once. The mixture should compact, not turn into a runny cream.

4 Room temperature or very gentle heat

Knead and mould

Knead with a spatula or gloved hands until you can compact the mixture. If it crumbles, add a few drops of water; if it is too sticky, leave it to rest for a few minutes.
Transfer the mixture to the mould and press firmly to avoid internal cracks.

5 Room temperature

Dry before assessing

Unmould once the bar is firm and leave to dry for 48-72 hours in a dry, ventilated place.
Do not judge hardness, foam or wear on the same day: the bar changes considerably during drying.

Final Room temperature

Measure the pH of a dispersion

Grate or cut off a small portion, prepare a 10% dispersion in water and measure the pH.
If it is below 7,5, remember that the technical data sheet specifies Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate as the INCI in that formula. Record the final value before repeating the batch.

Preservation, shelf life and validation

Avoid inhaling powdered surfactants. Wear a mask and work away from draughts.
Do not overheat. If using gentle heat for kneading, apply only as much as needed and avoid drying out or toasting the mixture.
Do not use on eyes or mucous membranes. Rinse with plenty of water.

Questions, improvements and possible corrections

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