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Solid syndet facial cleanser with SCI
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Solid syndet facial cleanser with SCI

Indicative solid facial cleanser formula with SCI and a mild powder phase.

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Formula objective. A solid syndet facial cleanser with SCI as the cleansing base. The formula aims for a gentle rinse-off facial bar, with a lower detergent content than a solid body or hair product.

Why these ingredients were chosen.

  • SCI is used as the main surfactant for its creamy foam and good performance in solid formats.
  • The structuring ingredients allow a manageable bar to form without increasing hardness too much.
  • The emollient fraction helps improve slip and comfort during massage.
  • The overall surfactant level should remain cautious because it is intended for facial use.
  • The pH of the dispersion is critical for evaluating skin compatibility.

Intended users. Normal or combination skin that tolerates rinse-off cleansers. For sensitive or reactive skin, or a compromised barrier, particular caution and very small trials are recommended.

Skill level. Advanced level: although the formula seems simple, a solid facial format requires control of powder, compaction, pH, hardness and the feel after rinsing.

Validation required. Validate pH, tolerance, hardness, drying, foam, cleansing action, stability against moisture and preservation during use.

Base formula

Include Product % Quantity Price / pack size
Powders and surfactants
Microfiltered SCI
35 % 35 g Pack sizes are available, but they are currently out of stock.
Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate powder
8 % 8 g €0.90 used (1 x 50 g · purchase €5.65) Approx. leftover 42 g
White Kaolin Clay
20 % 20 g €0.42 used (1 x 125 g · purchase €2.65) Approx. leftover 105 g
Maize Starch
15 % 15 g €0.59 used (1 x 50 g · purchase €1.95) Approx. leftover 35 g
Melted phase
Cetyl Alcohol
6 % 6 g €0.27 used (1 x 50 g · purchase €2.25) Approx. leftover 44 g
Virgin Jojoba Oil
5 % 5 g €0.66 used (1 x 30 ml · purchase €3.95) Approx. leftover 25 ml
Liquid vegetable glycerine
5 % 5 g €0.12 used (1 x 125 g · purchase €2.90) Approx. leftover 120 g
D-Panthenol W75
2 % 2 g €0.36 used (1 x 25 g · purchase €4.45) Approx. leftover 23 g
Distilled or deionised water
3.2 % 3.2 g Manual addition
Geogard 221 / Cosgard
0.8 % 0.8 g €0.16 used (1 x 10 ml · purchase €2.05) Approx. leftover 9.2 ml

Step by step

Prepare and protect the workspace 1 Room temperature

Prepare and protect the workspace

Before weighing, prepare the worktop, mould, spatula and containers. With solid shampoos and syndets, it is best to have everything to hand because the mixture can change texture as you work.

Wear a mask, goggles and gloves. SCI, SLSA, SCS and other powdered surfactants can release particles when mixed, and you should avoid inhaling them.

Weigh the powders and mix them slowly. If the recipe contains clay or starch, sieve them to avoid lumps and achieve a more uniform bar.

Melt the fat phase and moisten the mixture 2 60-70 ºC to melt the cetyl alcohol

Melt the fat phase and moisten the mixture

Melt the cetyl alcohol with the oil in the recipe over gentle heat. There is no need to overheat: the aim is simply to melt the solid part so that it can be distributed evenly.

Then add the glycerine, water and liquid active ingredients, if any. Add this phase to the powders little by little, mixing patiently.

The mixture should turn from loose powder into a paste that can be pressed together. If it seems dry, wait a moment and keep kneading before adding more water; it often takes a little time to hydrate evenly.

Mould without rushing 3 Room temperature

Mould without rushing

Once the mixture is mouldable, transfer it to the mould in small portions and press firmly. It is better to compact it in layers than to fill the mould all at once and leave gaps inside.

As this is a facial bar, aim for the smoothest possible surface and avoid leaving hard particles that have not been incorporated.

Smooth the surface with the spatula or gloved fingers. If the mixture is too sticky, leave it to rest for a few minutes before handling it further.

Dry, measure the pH and validate Final

Dry, measure the pH and validate

Allow the bar to dry in a clean, ventilated place protected from moisture. Do not seal the product in an airtight container while it is still soft or damp.

When it is sufficiently hard, prepare a 10% dispersion: for example, 1 g of product in 9 g of water. Mix, wait a few minutes and measure the pH of this dispersion.

The target range for this recipe is 5,0 - 6,0. If the pH is outside this range, do not scale up the formula until it has been corrected.

Also validate foam, rinsing, hardness, wear, feel on the skin or hair, and preservation before making another large batch.

Preservation, shelf life and validation

  • Handle powdered surfactants with a mask, goggles and gloves. Avoid raising dust while weighing and mixing.
  • Measure the pH in an aqueous dispersion before validating the bar. Do not seal it in airtight packaging until the product is sufficiently hard and dry.

Questions, improvements and possible corrections

If you have a question about this recipe, notice a possible error or would like to suggest an improvement, please let us know here.

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