Gentle facial cleanser with SugaNate

About this recipe. A rinse-off aqueous facial cleanser with a moderate surfactant content and SugaNate 160NC combined with Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate and Decyl Glucoside.

Why these ingredients are used.

Water is the main vehicle.
Glycerine and panthenol improve comfort in use.
SugaNate 160NC provides cleansing and foam.
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate helps soften and stabilise the foam.
Decyl Glucoside completes the cleansing system.
Geogard 221 / Cosgard preserves the formula within its pH range.

Always validate tolerance, rinsing, sensory feel, pH and preservation before regular use.

Base formula

Include	Product	%	Quantity	Price / pack size
Gelled aqueous phase
	Distilled or deionised water	72.95 %	729.5 g	Manual addition
	Liquid vegetable glycerine	3 %	30 g	€0.70 used (1 x 125 g · purchase €2.90) Approx. leftover 95 g
	Clear Xanthan Gum	0.25 %	2.5 g	€0.29 used (1 x 30 g · purchase €3.50) Approx. leftover 27.5 g
	D-Panthenol W75	2 %	20 g	€3.56 used (1 x 25 g · purchase €4.45) Approx. leftover 5 g
Surfactants
	SugaNate 160NC	8 %	80 g	€3.14 used (1 x 125 ml · purchase €4.90) Approx. leftover 45 ml
	Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate	8 %	80 g	€1.32 used (1 x 100 ml · purchase €1.65) Approx. leftover 20 ml
	Decyl Glucoside	5 %	50 g	€1.16 used (1 x 125 ml · purchase €2.90) Approx. leftover 75 ml
Preservation and pH
	Geogard 221 / Cosgard	0.8 %	8 g	€1.64 used (1 x 10 ml · purchase €2.05) Approx. leftover 2 ml
	Citric acid in a 20% solution	0 %	0 c.n.	Manual addition

Step by step

1 Room temperature

Prepare a lump-free aqueous phase

Start with a clean, disinfected mixing beaker, spatula and final container. Water-based formulas are not a place to improvise: weigh everything before you start and work calmly.

If the formula contains xanthan gum, mix it with the glycerine or humectants first. This wets the gum evenly and makes lumps much less likely to form.

Add the water gradually, in several additions, mixing gently after each one. If you see small lumps, do not whisk vigorously: leave it to rest for a few minutes and stir again until the base looks uniform.

2 Room temperature

Add the surfactants gently

When the aqueous phase is uniform, slowly incorporate SugaNate 160NC. Use slow, folding movements to avoid filling the product with foam.

Then add the remaining surfactants one at a time. Wait until each ingredient is well distributed before incorporating the next; this gives you better control of the texture and avoids concentrated areas.

For a facial cleanser, the aim is gentle cleansing and good rinsing, not harsh foam. If a lot of foam appears during manufacture, stop for a few minutes and let it subside.

3 Room temperature

Preserve and adjust the pH

Add the preservative when the mixture is uniform and stir for at least one minute using slow movements. The preservative must be distributed throughout the formula, not left in one area.

Measure the pH and compare it with this recipe's target range: 5,0 - 5,6. If it is high, adjust with a 20% citric acid solution, drop by drop.

After each drop, mix and measure again. The pH does not always change immediately, so it is better to proceed slowly than to overshoot and have to correct in the opposite direction.

Final

Allow to rest, check and package

Cover the beaker and leave the formula to rest for 24 hours. This allows the foam to subside, the gum to finish hydrating and the true viscosity to be assessed.

The next day, check the smell, colour, separation, lumps, clarity or opalescence, and texture. If anything changes unexpectedly, do not package it yet: first understand what has happened.

If everything is correct, transfer it to a clean container and label it with the name, date, final pH and any observations useful for repeating or improving the formula.

Preservation, shelf life and validation

Work with clean, disinfected utensils. Avoid whisking the surfactants so that excessive foam does not form during manufacture.
Always measure the final pH before considering the formula finished. Do not use the recipe on children, mucous membranes or the eye area without specific validation.

Questions, improvements and possible corrections

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