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Creamy shaving cleansing gel with Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate
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Creamy shaving cleansing gel with Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate

A starting point for a rinse-off gel-cream texture with gentle foam.

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Formula objective. A creamy shaving cleansing gel in which Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate plays the main mildness role within the surfactant system. The formula aims for slip, controlled foam and cleansing that does not leave a harsh feel after rinsing.

Why these ingredients were chosen.

  • Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate is chosen for its amphoteric profile and ability to soften cleansing systems.
  • The humectant phase helps maintain comfort during the contact time before shaving.
  • The thickener or gelling agent adds body so that the product remains on the skin during massage.
  • The surfactant system is kept moderate to prioritise tolerance over intensive detergency.
  • The preservative and pH adjustment are necessary because this is an aqueous formula applied to a potentially sensitive area.

Intended users. People seeking a gentle shaving cleanser for light beards or skin preparation before shaving. It does not replace pressurised shaving foam or a traditional brush-applied shaving soap.

Skill level. Advanced level: although it is not a complex emulsion, it requires control of viscosity, slip, foam, pH and tolerance in a use situation with possible minor irritation from shaving.

Validation required. Validate pH, razor glide, rinsing, gel stability, preservation and tolerance after shaving. Always trial on a small scale before producing larger quantities.

Base formula

Include Product % Quantity Price / pack size
Gelled aqueous phase
Distilled or deionised water
69.2 % 692 g Manual addition
Liquid vegetable glycerine
5 % 50 g €1.16 used (1 x 125 g · purchase €2.90) Approx. leftover 75 g
Clear Xanthan Gum
0.5 % 5 g €0.58 used (1 x 30 g · purchase €3.50) Approx. leftover 25 g
Surfactants
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate
12 % 120 g €2.40 used (1 x 125 ml · purchase €2.50) Approx. leftover 5 ml
Decyl Glucoside
8 % 80 g €1.86 used (1 x 125 ml · purchase €2.90) Approx. leftover 45 ml
Coco Glucoside
4.5 % 45 g €1.19 used (1 x 125 ml · purchase €3.30) Approx. leftover 80 ml
Preservation and pH adjustment
Geogard 221 / Cosgard
0.8 % 8 g €1.64 used (1 x 10 ml · purchase €2.05) Approx. leftover 2 ml
Citric acid in a 20% solution
0 % 0 c.n. Manual addition

Step by step

Prepare a lump-free aqueous phase 1 Room temperature

Prepare a lump-free aqueous phase

Start with a clean, disinfected mixing beaker, spatula and final container. Water-based formulas are not a place to improvise: weigh everything before you start and work calmly.

If the formula contains xanthan gum, mix it with the glycerine or humectants first. This wets the gum evenly and makes lumps much less likely to form.

Add the water gradually, in several additions, mixing gently after each one. If you see small lumps, do not whisk vigorously: leave it to rest for a few minutes and stir again until the base looks uniform.

Add the surfactants gently 2 Room temperature

Add the surfactants gently

When the aqueous phase is uniform, slowly incorporate the Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate. Use slow, folding movements to avoid filling the product with foam.

Then add the remaining surfactants one at a time. Wait until each ingredient is well distributed before incorporating the next; this gives you better control of the texture and avoids concentrated areas.

For a shaving formula, a uniform texture with good slip is desirable. Mix without beating to keep the foam manageable.

Preserve and adjust the pH 3 Room temperature

Preserve and adjust the pH

Add the preservative when the mixture is uniform and stir for at least one minute using slow movements. The preservative must be distributed throughout the formula, not left in one area.

Measure the pH and compare it with this recipe's target range: 5,5 - 6,3. If it is high, adjust with a 20% citric acid solution, drop by drop.

After each drop, mix and measure again. The pH does not always change immediately, so it is better to proceed slowly than to overshoot and have to correct in the opposite direction.

Allow to rest, check and package Final

Allow to rest, check and package

Cover the beaker and leave the formula to rest for 24 hours. This allows the foam to subside, the gum to finish hydrating and the true viscosity to be assessed.

The next day, check the smell, colour, separation, lumps, clarity or opalescence, and texture. If anything changes unexpectedly, do not package it yet: first understand what has happened.

If everything is correct, transfer it to a clean container and label it with the name, date, final pH and any observations useful for repeating or improving the formula.

Preservation, shelf life and validation

  • Work with clean, disinfected utensils. Avoid whisking the surfactants so that excessive foam does not form during manufacture.
  • Always measure the final pH before considering the formula finished. Do not use the recipe on children, mucous membranes or the eye area without specific validation.

Questions, improvements and possible corrections

If you have a question about this recipe, notice a possible error or would like to suggest an improvement, please let us know here.

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