Silky cream with Protelan NMF

This recipe corrects the approach to Protelan NMF as an O/W self-emulsifying base for hot processing. The formula aims for a silky cream with a moderate oil phase that is easy to use. Protelan NMF is used at 5% as the main ingredient. As always, this is an indicative proposal: stability, pH, viscosity, preservation, packaging compatibility and tolerance must be validated before scaling up.

Base formula

Include	Product	%	Quantity	Price / pack size
Oil phase / emulsifier
	Protelan NMF	5 %	5 g	€0.29 used (1 x 50 g · purchase €2.85) Approx. leftover 45 g
	Coco Caprilate / Caprate	8 %	8 g	€0.58 used (1 x 50 ml · purchase €3.60) Approx. leftover 42 ml
	Organic Virgin Jojoba Oil	8.2 %	8.2 g	€1.08 used (1 x 30 ml · purchase €3.95) Approx. leftover 21.8 ml
Aqueous phase
	Distilled water	74 %	74 g	Manual addition
	Vegetable glycerine	4 %	4 g	€0.09 used (1 x 125 g · purchase €2.90) Approx. leftover 121 g
Cooling phase
	Geogard 221 Preservative	0.8 %	0.8 g	€0.16 used (1 x 10 ml · purchase €2.05) Approx. leftover 9.2 ml

Step by step

1 Room temperature

Prepare and disinfect

Clean the worktop and disinfect the beakers, spatulas, stirring rods, blender, thermometer and final container. In a water-containing formula, hygiene is part of the recipe.

Also prepare pH strips or a pH meter. We will check the pH at the end before considering it complete.

2 Room temperature

Weigh the phases

Weigh the aqueous phase into a heat-resistant beaker and the oil phase with the emulsifier into another beaker. Check the formula before heating.

If the recipe contains a gum, dispersing it in the glycerine first helps to prevent lumps.

3 70-75 ºC

Heat until completely melted

Heat the phases until the emulsifier has completely melted and the oil phase looks uniform. As a starting point, work with both phases at around 70-75 ºC, unless the ingredient's data sheet specifies a different range.

Do not combine the phases if any granules or flakes remain unmelted.

4 70-75 ºC

Emulsify

Combine the hot phases and mix with a blender at low power for one or two minutes. Then alternate pauses with manual mixing.

Some emulsions seem runny at first and develop body as they cool. Do not adjust the formula before seeing its final texture after resting.

5 <35 ºC

Cool with gentle mixing

Stir occasionally as the temperature falls. Avoid whisking too vigorously so that unnecessary air is not incorporated.

Once the formula is below 35 ºC, you can add the final phase.

6 <35 ºC

Add the final phase and measure the pH

Add the preservative and any heat-sensitive ingredients, and mix until fully distributed.

Then measure the pH. The indicative target for this recipe is 5.2-5.8. If adjustment is needed, make small changes, mix, wait a few minutes and measure again.

Final Room temperature

Package and validate

Transfer to a clean, dry container and label it with the name, date and amount prepared.

Do not assess the formula only on the first day. Check it for 7-14 days: separation, smell, colour, viscosity, skin feel, pH and compatibility with the container.

Preservation, shelf life and validation

Indicative formula for external cosmetic use. Disinfect utensils and containers, work hygienically and avoid touching the finished formula with your hands.
As it contains water, it needs a preservative and microbiological validation if it is to be sold or stored for a prolonged period. Do not use if its smell, colour or texture changes, or if unusual separation appears.

Questions, improvements and possible corrections

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