Basic mild shampoo

About this recipe. A basic gentle shampoo to use as a starting point for simple hair formulas. It aims for moderate cleansing, good foam and easy rinsing, with a surfactant system supported by Coco Betaine and glucosides.

Why these ingredients are used.

Distilled or deionised water is the main vehicle and avoids interference from salts in tap water.
Propanediol and glycerine provide humectancy and improve the feeling during washing.
Xanthan gum adds body so that the shampoo is not excessively fluid.
Coco Betaine helps soften the cleansing profile and supports foaming.
Decyl Glucoside and Coco Glucoside form the non-ionic cleansing base of the formula.
Geogard 221 / Cosgard protects the formula within its usage and pH range.
Citric acid allows the final pH to be adjusted to the recommended range for hair use.

It must be validated on hair and scalp, checking pH, foam, rinsing, viscosity, stability and preservation.

Base formula

Include	Product	%	Quantity	Price / pack size
Gelled aqueous phase
	Distilled or deionised water	55.25 %	552.5 g	Manual addition
	Propanediol	3 %	30 g	€3.30 used (1 x 50 ml · purchase €5.50) Approx. leftover 20 ml
	Liquid vegetable glycerine	2.5 %	25 g	€0.58 used (1 x 125 g · purchase €2.90) Approx. leftover 100 g
	Clear Xanthan Gum	0.25 %	2.5 g	€0.29 used (1 x 30 g · purchase €3.50) Approx. leftover 27.5 g
Surfactants
	Coco Betaine	18 %	180 g	€2.59 used (1 x 250 ml · purchase €3.60) Approx. leftover 70 ml
	Decyl Glucoside	12 %	120 g	€2.78 used (1 x 125 ml · purchase €2.90) Approx. leftover 5 ml
	Coco Glucoside	8 %	80 g	€2.11 used (1 x 125 ml · purchase €3.30) Approx. leftover 45 ml
Preservation and pH adjustment
	Geogard 221 / Cosgard	1 %	10 g	€2.05 used (1 x 10 ml · purchase €2.05) Approx. leftover 0 ml · fully used
	Citric acid in a 20% solution	0 %	0 c.n.	Manual addition

Step by step

1 Room temperature

Prepare a lump-free aqueous phase

Start with a clean, disinfected mixing beaker, spatula and final container. Water-based formulas are not a place to improvise: weigh everything before you start and work calmly.

If the formula contains xanthan gum, mix it with the glycerine or humectants first. This wets the gum evenly and makes lumps much less likely to form.

Add the water gradually, in several additions, mixing gently after each one. If you see small lumps, do not whisk vigorously: leave it to rest for a few minutes and stir again until the base looks uniform.

2 Room temperature

Add the surfactants gently

When the aqueous phase is uniform, slowly incorporate the Coco Betaine. Use slow, folding movements to avoid filling the product with foam.

Then add the remaining surfactants one at a time. Wait until each ingredient is well distributed before incorporating the next; this gives you better control of the texture and avoids concentrated areas.

In shampoo, it is normal for viscosity to change as surfactants are added. Do not adjust the texture yet; first finish the formula and allow it to rest.

3 Room temperature

Preserve and adjust the pH

Add the preservative once the mixture is homogeneous and stir slowly for at least one minute. The preservative must be distributed throughout the formula, rather than remaining in one area.

Measure the pH and compare it with this recipe's target range: 5,0 - 5,5. If it is high, adjust with a 20% citric acid solution, drop by drop.

After each drop, mix and measure again. The pH does not always change immediately, so it is better to proceed slowly than to overshoot and have to adjust in the opposite direction.

Final

Allow to rest, check and package

Cover the beaker and leave the formula to rest for 24 hours. This allows the foam to subside, the gum to finish hydrating and the true viscosity to be assessed.

The next day, check the smell, colour, separation, lumps, clarity or opalescence, and texture. If anything changes unexpectedly, do not package it yet: first understand what has happened.

If everything is correct, transfer it to a clean container and label it with the name, date, final pH and any observations useful for repeating or improving the formula.

Preservation, shelf life and validation

Work with clean, disinfected utensils. Avoid whisking the surfactants so that excessive foam does not form during manufacture.
Always measure the final pH before considering the formula finished. Do not use the recipe on children, mucous membranes or the eye area without specific validation.

Questions, improvements and possible corrections

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