Cream conditioner with BTMS 25

This recipe is designed to assess BTMS 25 as the main cationic conditioner in a rinse-off hair formula. Although water is the largest component, BTMS 25 is the ingredient that provides structure, a conditioning feel and affinity with the hair fibre. The formula avoids combining it with anionic surfactants to keep compatibility straightforward. It is an indicative proposal: stability, pH, viscosity, preservation, rinsing and tolerance in use must be validated before scaling up.

Base formula

Include	Product	%	Quantity	Price / pack size
Oil phase / emulsifier
	BTMS 25 RSPO/MB	6 %	6 g	€0.47 used (1 x 50 g · purchase €3.90) Approx. leftover 44 g
	Coco Caprilate / Caprate	4 %	4 g	€0.29 used (1 x 50 ml · purchase €3.60) Approx. leftover 46 ml
Aqueous phase
	Distilled water	81.2 %	81.2 g	Manual addition
	Vegetable glycerine	3 %	3 g	€0.07 used (1 x 125 g · purchase €2.90) Approx. leftover 122 g
Cooling phase
	Provitamin B5 - Panthenol W75%	5 %	5 g	€0.89 used (1 x 25 g · purchase €4.45) Approx. leftover 20 g
	Geogard 221 Preservative	0.8 %	0.8 g	€0.16 used (1 x 10 ml · purchase €2.05) Approx. leftover 9.2 ml

Step by step

1 Room temperature

Prepare and disinfect

Clean the worktop and disinfect the beakers, spatulas, stirring rods, blender, thermometer and final container. In a water-containing formula, hygiene is part of the recipe.

Also prepare pH strips or a pH meter. We will check the pH at the end before considering it complete.

2 Room temperature

Weigh the phases

Weigh the aqueous phase into a heat-resistant beaker and the oil phase with the emulsifier into another beaker. Check the formula before heating.

If the recipe contains a gum, dispersing it in the glycerine first helps to prevent lumps.

3 70-75 ºC

Heat until completely melted

Heat the phases until the emulsifier has completely melted and the oil phase looks uniform. As a starting point, work with both phases at around 70-75 ºC, unless the ingredient's data sheet specifies a different range.

Do not combine the phases if any granules or flakes remain unmelted.

4 70-75 ºC

Emulsify

Combine the hot phases and mix with a blender at low power for one or two minutes. Then alternate pauses with manual mixing.

Some emulsions seem runny at first and develop body as they cool. Do not adjust the formula before seeing its final texture after resting.

5 <35 ºC

Cool with gentle mixing

Stir occasionally as the temperature falls. Avoid whisking too vigorously so that unnecessary air is not incorporated.

Once the formula is below 35 ºC, you can add the final phase.

6 <35 ºC

Add the final phase and measure the pH

Add the preservative and any heat-sensitive ingredients, and mix until fully distributed.

Then measure the pH. The indicative target for this recipe is 4.5-5.5. If adjustment is needed, make small changes, mix, wait a few minutes and measure again.

Final Room temperature

Package and validate

Transfer to a clean, dry container and label it with the name, date and amount prepared.

Do not assess the formula only on the first day. Check it for 7-14 days: separation, smell, colour, viscosity, skin feel, pH and compatibility with the container.

Preservation, shelf life and validation

Indicative formula for external cosmetic use. Disinfect utensils and containers, work hygienically and avoid touching the finished formula with your hands.
As it contains water, it needs a preservative and microbiological validation if it is to be sold or stored for a prolonged period. Do not use if its smell, colour or texture changes, or if unusual separation appears.

Questions, improvements and possible corrections

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