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Gentle shampoo with SugaNate and hair care active ingredients
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Liquid shampoo

Gentle shampoo with SugaNate and hair care active ingredients

Indicative gentle shampoo formula with SugaNate, panthenol and hydrolysed wheat protein.

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About this recipe. A gentle starting shampoo with SugaNate 160NC, Coco Betaine and Decyl Glucoside, reinforced with D-Panthenol W75 and Hydrolysed Wheat Protein to improve hair feel.

Why these ingredients are used.

  • SugaNate 160NC provides foam and cleansing as an anionic surfactant.
  • Coco Betaine helps soften the cleansing profile and support the foam.
  • Decyl Glucoside completes the surfactant system.
  • D-Panthenol W75 provides conditioning and a feeling of hydration.
  • Hydrolysed Wheat Protein improves the feel of the hair.
  • Xanthan gum provides light viscosity.

It must be validated on the intended hair type, checking pH, foam, rinsing, viscosity, preservation and stability.

Base formula

Include Product % Quantity Price / pack size
Aqueous phase with actives
Distilled or deionised water
58.9 % 589 g Manual addition
Liquid vegetable glycerine
2 % 20 g €0.46 used (1 x 125 g · purchase €2.90) Approx. leftover 105 g
D-Panthenol W75
2 % 20 g €3.56 used (1 x 25 g · purchase €4.45) Approx. leftover 5 g
Hydrolysed Wheat Protein
3 % 30 g €3.85 used (1 x 30 ml · purchase €3.85) Approx. leftover 0 ml · fully used
Clear Xanthan Gum
0.3 % 3 g €0.35 used (1 x 30 g · purchase €3.50) Approx. leftover 27 g
Surfactants
SugaNate 160NC
13 % 130 g €4.33 used (1 x 250 ml · purchase €8.33) Approx. leftover 120 ml
Coco Betaine
12 % 120 g €2.35 used (1 x 125 ml · purchase €2.45) Approx. leftover 5 ml
Decyl Glucoside
8 % 80 g €1.86 used (1 x 125 ml · purchase €2.90) Approx. leftover 45 ml
Preservation and pH
Geogard 221 / Cosgard
0.8 % 8 g €1.64 used (1 x 10 ml · purchase €2.05) Approx. leftover 2 ml
Citric acid in a 20% solution
0 % 0 c.n. Manual addition

Step by step

Prepare a lump-free aqueous phase 1 Room temperature

Prepare a lump-free aqueous phase

Start with a clean, disinfected mixing beaker, spatula and final container. Water-based formulas are not a place to improvise: weigh everything before you start and work calmly.

If the formula contains xanthan gum, mix it with the glycerine or humectants first. This wets the gum evenly and makes lumps much less likely to form.

Add the water gradually, in several additions, mixing gently after each one. If you see small lumps, do not whisk vigorously: leave it to rest for a few minutes and stir again until the base looks uniform.

Add the surfactants gently 2 Room temperature

Add the surfactants gently

When the aqueous phase is uniform, slowly incorporate SugaNate 160NC. Use slow, folding movements to avoid filling the product with foam.

Then add the remaining surfactants one at a time. Wait until each ingredient is well distributed before incorporating the next; this gives you better control of the texture and avoids concentrated areas.

In shampoo, it is normal for viscosity to change as surfactants are added. Do not adjust the texture yet; first finish the formula and allow it to rest.

Preserve and adjust the pH 3 Room temperature

Preserve and adjust the pH

Add the preservative once the mixture is homogeneous and stir slowly for at least one minute. The preservative must be distributed throughout the formula, rather than remaining in one area.

Measure the pH and compare it with this recipe's target range: 5,0 - 5,5. If it is high, adjust with a 20% citric acid solution, drop by drop.

After each drop, mix and measure again. The pH does not always change immediately, so it is better to proceed slowly than to overshoot and have to adjust in the opposite direction.

Allow to rest, check and package Final

Allow to rest, check and package

Cover the beaker and leave the formula to rest for 24 hours. This allows the foam to subside, the gum to finish hydrating and the true viscosity to be assessed.

The next day, check the smell, colour, separation, lumps, clarity or opalescence, and texture. If anything changes unexpectedly, do not package it yet: first understand what has happened.

If everything is correct, transfer it to a clean container and label it with the name, date, final pH and any observations useful for repeating or improving the formula.

Preservation, shelf life and validation

  • Work with clean, disinfected utensils. Avoid whisking the surfactants so that excessive foam does not form during manufacture.
  • Always measure the final pH before considering the formula finished. Do not use the recipe on children, mucous membranes or the eye area without specific validation.

Questions, improvements and possible corrections

If you have a question about this recipe, notice a possible error or would like to suggest an improvement, please let us know here.

We review messages before publishing them. Please do not include personal data or medical questions; if the answer could help others, we will publish it as an answered question.