Zinc PCA - Zinc pidolate

Description

Zinc PCA - Zinc Pidolate

Zinc PCA is the zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), the same acid found in the skin's Natural Moisturising Factor. It is a white or cream-coloured, water-soluble powder used in cosmetics as a sebum-regulating and purifying active ingredient for oily, combination and acne-prone skin, as well as in haircare products and deodorants.

It is a different raw material from zinc gluconate, bisglycinate, oxide and ricinoleate: all provide zinc, but their solubility, usage rate and applications differ, and they must not be interchanged without reviewing the formula.

Benefits and uses

• Regulates sebum production: zinc acts on 5-alpha-reductase, the enzyme that converts testosterone into DHT, which stimulates the sebaceous gland.
• Purifying: helps control the microbiota of oily skin and associated blemishes.
• Provides PCA, a humectant found in the Natural Moisturising Factor, so it mattifies without the drying effect of other active ingredients.
• Leaves a fresh feeling on the skin and scalp: of interest in deodorants, shampoos and toners.
• Water-soluble, with no noticeable colour or odour: does not colour or cloud aqueous formulas.

Use in formulation

• Suggested usage rates: emulsions and creams up to 0,3%; shampoos and cleansing gels 0,2% - 0,5%; toners, hair lotions and deodorants 0,5% - 1%.
• Solubility: up to 18% in water. Also soluble in ethanol and propylene glycol.
• Addition stage: aqueous phase. Dissolve first in part of the formula's water, then add. No heat is required.
• Working pH: between 4 and 7. Above pH 7 it precipitates, so alkaline formulas and ingredients with an alkaline reaction must be avoided.
• Adjust the pH at the end, with the active ingredient already incorporated, and check that the formula is clear and free of sediment.

INCI

Zinc PCA

Technical data

• Chemical name: bis(5-oxo-L-prolinato-N1,O2)zinc. Also zinc pidolate or zinc pyroglutamate.
• Formula: C10H12N2O6Zn.
• Molecular mass: 321,6 g/mol.
• CAS number: 15454-75-8.
• EC number (EINECS): 239-473-5.
• Zinc content: 19,4% - 21,3% on a dry basis.
• Appearance: white to cream-coloured powder, practically odourless.
• Solubility: up to 18% in water; soluble in ethanol and propylene glycol.
• Working pH: 4 - 7.
• Origin: France. Natural origin index ISO 16128: 1 (100% of natural origin).
• Storage: in a tightly closed container, in dry conditions, protected from light and heat.
• Final formulas must be tested and validated before use or sale.

Suggested application examples - Zinc PCA

• Sebum-regulating toner: 0,5% - 1% in the aqueous phase, with a final pH between 4,5 and 5,5. Combines well with niacinamide and astringent hydrosols.
• Serum or gel for oily skin: 0,3% - 0,5%, dissolved in water before gelling.
• Cream or light emulsion: up to 0,3% in the aqueous phase; check that the emulsion does not change colour or lose stability.
• Shampoo for oily or dandruff-prone scalps: 0,2% - 0,5% of the aqueous phase, ensuring that the pH does not rise above 7.
• Deodorant without aluminium salts: 0,5% - 1% in an aqueous base or roll-on, for its purifying action and the freshness it leaves.

These are incorporation examples, not a complete recipe. Zinc PCA precipitates in alkaline conditions, so a small trial is advisable before scaling up the formula, checking pH, appearance and stability.

Raw material intended for cosmetic use. Do not ingest. Causes serious eye damage: wear protective goggles when handling the powder, avoid generating dust and keep out of reach of children.

Precautions

• Causes serious eye damage (H318): wear protective goggles when handling the powder.
• Avoid generating dust and do not breathe it in.
• Not suitable for oral use. For topical cosmetic use only.
• Keep out of reach of children.

For topical cosmetic use. Causes serious eye damage: wear protective goggles when handling the powder and avoid breathing it in. Follow the recommended usage rate of 0,2% to 1% depending on the cosmetic. Do not ingest.