Product information
- INCI: Isoamyl Laurate
- Relative density: 0,830 - 0,870 g/cm3 (20 C)
- Country of origin: Spain
- Chemical formula: C17H34O3
- TS7317
- CAS number: 6309-51-9
- EINECS number: 228-626-1
- IUPAC name: dioctyl carbonate
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Description
Isoamyl Laurate
A light emollient ester with a dry, silky feel, particularly useful for improving the sensory properties of emulsions, body oils, oil-based serums, make-up and hair products. It provides spreadability, softness and a velvety feel without leaving a heavy film.
Its profile makes it a naturally derived sensory alternative to a silicone-like feel, helping reduce the greasiness of oils and butters, improve formula slip and provide a more refined finish on skin and hair. It may also help disperse pigments in colour cosmetics.
Incorporate into the oil phase or anhydrous formulas. It is not water-soluble, so emulsions require a suitable emulsifying system and stability validation of the final formula.
Characteristics
- Light emollient and sensory modifier.
- Active matter: 100%.
- Appearance: clear, colourless liquid.
- Oil-soluble and insoluble in water.
- Provides a silky, dry, velvety feel.
- Improves spreadability and reduces the greasy feel of oil phases.
- Useful in creams, lotions, oil-based serums, make-up, hair products and pigmented formulations.
- RSPO Mass Balance raw material.
INCI
Isoamyl Laurate.
Indicative Technical Data
- CAS: 6309-51-9.
- EINECS/EC: 228-626-1.
- Density at 20 ºC: 0,830 - 0,870 g/cm³.
- Viscosity at 25 ºC: 4,5 - 6,0 cSt.
- Acid value: max. 0,3.
- Refractive index at 20 ºC: 1,430 - 1,440.
Indicative Use
- Facial creams and lotions: 2% - 8%.
- Body and hair products: 3% - 15%.
- Anhydrous formulas and sensory oils: 5% - 30%.
- Make-up and pigment dispersion: validate according to pigment loading.
Working pH
pH does not apply directly to this ingredient because it is an oily raw material. In emulsions, the aqueous phase determines the pH, which must be adjusted to the product type; facial cosmetics typically use approximately pH 5,0 to 6,5.
Incompatibilities and Precautions
- Not water-soluble; requires an appropriate emulsifier or solubilisation when incorporated into aqueous systems.
- Avoid extreme pH conditions and unnecessary prolonged heating.
- A high percentage may alter an emulsion’s viscosity, stability and final feel.
- Proposed formulas must be tested and validated before use or sale.
Formula for 100 g
- Distilled or deionised water: 75,95 g
- Liquid Vegetable Glycerine: 3 g
- Xanthan Gum: 0,25 g
- Isoamyl Laurate: 6 g
- Organic Virgin Jojoba Oil: 4 g
- Olivem 1000 Emulsifying Wax: 5 g
- Cetyl Alcohol: 1 g
- Provitamin B5 / D-Panthenol W75%: 2 g
- Niacinamide / Nicotinamide - Vitamin B3: 2 g
- Geogard 221 / Cosgard Preservative: 0,80 g
- pH Indicator Strips or pH meter: as required
Target pH: 5,3 - 5,8.
Recommended Preservative
Geogard 221 / Cosgard at 0,8%. Alternatively, use Leucidal® SF MAX at 3%; in that case, reduce the water to 73,75 g to keep the total at 100 g.
Step by Step
Phase A - Aqueous Phase
- Disperse the xanthan gum in the glycerine.
- Add the water and mix until the gum is hydrated.
- Heat the aqueous phase to approximately 70-75 ºC.
Phase B - Oil Phase
- In another beaker, weigh the Isoamyl Laurate, jojoba oil, Olivem 1000 and cetyl alcohol.
- Heat to approximately 70-75 ºC until the oil phase has completely melted.
- Mix gently until the phase looks uniform.
Phase C - Emulsification
- Pour the oil phase into the aqueous phase and emulsify for several minutes.
- Continue stirring gently as the emulsion starts to cool and thicken.
- Avoid incorporating excess air to obtain a finer texture.
Phase D - Cooling, Active Ingredients and pH
- When the emulsion is below 40 ºC, add the panthenol, niacinamide and preservative.
- Mix until homogeneous.
- Measure the pH and adjust to the indicated range if needed.
- Package in a clean jar or airless container and leave for 24 hours before assessing the final texture.
How to Use
Apply a small amount to clean skin. Carry out a tolerance test before first use and avoid direct eye contact.
Formulation Notes
- Isoamyl Laurate is not water-soluble; incorporate it into the oil phase or anhydrous formulas.
- The formula is calculated for 100 g. If the preservative or oil-phase percentage is changed, adjust the water to maintain the total.
- Before sale, validate stability, preservation, packaging compatibility and compliance with applicable requirements.
Simple formulas to get started
Solubility: Oil-soluble; insoluble in water
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