Product information
- INCI: Ectoin
- AD7488
- CAS number: 96702-03-3
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Description
Ectoin is a small molecule produced by some bacteria to survive in very salty water. In cosmetics, it is used as a moisturiser and skin conditioner in the aqueous phase of serums, gels, toners, lotions and creams.
A little history: in 1985, the German researchers Galinski, Pfeiffer and Trüper described it in bacteria from the saline, alkaline lakes of Wadi Natrun in Egypt. They named it ectoin after these bacteria, Ectothiorhodospira.
Where it comes from: with so much salt, any cell would lose its water and dry out. These bacteria protect themselves by accumulating ectoin, which retains water and protects their proteins from heat, dryness and sunlight. It does not come from algae or animals.
How it is obtained: by fermentation, growing bacteria. In the classic method, ‘bacterial milking’, the bacteria grow in salty water and are transferred to less salty water: they release the ectoin, which is collected, purified and crystallised, and the bacteria start again. It comes as a white powder, and every batch has its own certificate of analysis.
What it contributes to the skin: it helps keep skin hydrated because it surrounds itself with water and helps slow water loss from the skin. It helps skin cope better with everyday stresses, such as cold, wind, central heating or pollution, and provides comfort for sensitive and dry skin. It is not a UV filter and does not replace sunscreen.
How to add it to a formula: it is soluble in water and glycerine and insoluble in oil, so it always belongs in the aqueous phase. Manufacturers recommend between 0,3 and 2 %. It is stable over a very wide pH range, from 1 to 9. Some suppliers recommend not exceeding 40 °C: if in doubt, dissolve it in a little water and add it at the end, below that temperature. Formulas containing water need a preservative system.
What it combines with: hyaluronic acid, glycerine and other aqueous-phase moisturisers, niacinamide, and gels containing carbomer or xanthan gum. No incompatibilities have been published; as with any active ingredient, check the stability of your formula.
Identification: INCI Ectoin; CAS 96702-03-3. White powder, soluble in water. Cosmetic use.
Precautions
For use as a cosmetic raw material. Avoid dispersing dust and direct contact with the eyes. Review the safety information for the grade and use protection appropriate to the process.
For use as a cosmetic raw material. Avoid dispersing dust and direct contact with the eyes. Review the safety information for the grade and use protection appropriate to the process.
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