Myristic acid

Myristic acid, also known as tetradecanoic acid, is a saturated C14 fatty acid. This plant-derived grade comes in flakes and has a specified myristic acid content of at least 99 %.

In cosmetic formulation, it provides cleansing functions and supports emulsification. Its behaviour depends on the composition of the formula and the degree of neutralisation. The specification includes a titre of 52 to 54 °C and a saponification value of 244 to 249 mg KOH/g.

Identification: INCI Myristic Acid; CAS 544-63-8; CE/EINECS 208-875-2.

Specification data: acid value 243-248 mg KOH/g; saponification value 244-249 mg KOH/g. The ranges do not represent results for a particular batch.

Planning its use: first define the cosmetic system and incorporation process. If used in neutralisation or saponification, calculate the base required for all the raw materials and check the pH of the final product. The specification does not establish a universal cosmetic dosage.

Development and validation: make a pilot batch and assess stability, packaging compatibility and suitability for the intended use. Do not add directly to a finished cosmetic without reformulating and validating it.

What it contributes to the formula: it is a free C14 fatty acid derived from plant-based palm raw material. It can contribute to the development of cleansing systems and emulsions, but its behaviour changes when neutralised. It is not a direct substitute for a liquid surfactant or a complete emulsifier.

Solubility and incorporation: the safety data sheet reports a water solubility of 0,02 kg/m³ at 20 °C, equivalent to 0,02 g/L. It should therefore not be incorporated by simply dissolving it in water at room temperature. The incorporation method depends on the formula and on whether it is used as a free acid or in controlled neutralisation.

Processing temperature: the specified solidification titre is 52-54 °C and the safety data sheet reports a melting point of 54 °C. These values are neither maximum permissible temperatures for other ingredients nor universal heating instructions.

Compatibility and testing: keep separate from oxidising agents. When formulating with a base, define the amount and concentration of alkali, the order of addition and the reaction controls. Assess homogeneity and texture on cooling; do not attempt to correct lumps or separation by adding alkali without recalculating the formula. Measuring pH alone does not replace checking a soap for free alkali.