Azelaic Acid

Description

Azelaic acid occurs naturally in foods. It owes its antimicrobial effects to an anti-keratinising action on the epidermis at follicle level. This antimicrobial effect results from the inhibition of cellular protein synthesis.

It occurs naturally in wheat, rye and barley. On the skin, it is produced by the fungus Malassezia furfur.

It has bacteriostatic effects against aerobic microorganisms such as Staphylococcus epidermis and Propionibacterium acnes, which are present in large proportions on acne-affected skin.

At high concentrations, it is bactericidal against S. epidermis and P. acnes. Reducing the concentration of bacteria on the skin decreases the associated inflammation. It also has the ability to scavenge free radicals.

The anti-keratinocytic effect of this acid is due to a reduction in the synthesis of filaggrin (a protein that aggregates keratin filaments). Inhibiting this protein normalises follicular keratinisation, which leads to a reduction in acne. This acid does not affect sebum secretion.

Properties and Uses of Azelaic Acid

Used topically as a keratolytic through its effect on filaggrin synthesis, reducing the aggregation of keratin filaments.

It is also used in anti-acne treatments (papulopustular or comedonal acne) for its bactericidal action, which results from its ability to inhibit cellular protein production in bacteria through an unknown mechanism. This reduces the bacterial population in the acne-affected area, decreasing inflammation and spots.

It is also used for rosacea, treating the inflammation, swelling and redness it causes.

It is also used to treat lentigo maligna and melasma or chloasma, as it inhibits tyrosinase and reduces melanin synthesis.

Antioxidant, depigmenting, antibacterial, disinfectant, antifungal, anti-itch, redness-reducing...

It can be used to prepare gels, creams, lotions and serums...

Recommended Amount

Dissolve in boiling water (95 - 100º) or alcohol (at room temperature), at 1% to 10% of the total formula.

Side Effects

• May cause itching, stinging, burning and local irritation, although these usually disappear with continued use.
• Exceptionally, hypopigmentation and photosensitisation.
• In fewer than 1% of cases, contact dermatitis, erythema or xerosis.

Contraindications

• Children under 12 years of age.
• Pregnancy and breastfeeding.
• Use with caution on darker complexions to avoid hypopigmentation.

Precautions

• Avoid contact with nasal, oral and ocular mucous membranes.
• Limit simultaneous use with harsh cosmetics; if persistent irritation occurs, reduce or discontinue use.
• Protect the product from light, as it oxidises readily.